After living a few times in Africa, and thousands of shots, I’ve figured out some ways to capture some of what makes places like Senegal and Ethiopia spellbinding. Here are some of those techniques. If you’re a Senegalese or Ethiopian, lucky you! You know already then that it’s much easier to do this than it is for us visitors. These tips are for us Toubabs and Fenenjis.
Ready?
1. GO!
Just go there. Try it. I realize you may have just bought a couch and can’t really afford it. I know that all-expense paid, drink-filled trip to Mexico seems so much easier. But go somewhere interesting. Go somewhere that shakes you up a little. Skip Paris and London for Mongolia, Zambia or Nicaragua. Leaving your home culture does some amazing things. And results in some amazing photos.
2. Learn the Language and Smile
Learn 50 local words. 10 even. This shows you care about their culture (you do, don’t you? Because if not, well then I take back what I said in No. 1!). The more you learn about the culture, the more you can understand what is happening around you. This will translate to better photography. People will also be more willing subjects when they like you. These are a few of many good reasons to learn how to introduce yourself in a local language, and smile as you do.
3. Be a Local
The goal is to not draw attention to yourself. Think like a photojournalist. Unwanted attention prevents good photo opportunities (and can be annoying). On short trips, it can be tough to become an instant local. Beyond the obvious like your choice of clothing, subconscious behavioural clues beyond your control will give you away. It’s a matter of convincing yourself that you belong. If you can visualize yourself as belonging there, you’ll spend less time worrying about how you don’t fit in. You’ll notice more around you, and others will notice you less. This leads to great photo opportunities. Do all you can to minimize the attention you draw. Walk like a local. Try to talk like a local. Dress like a local. Be a local. It is at least partially a state of mind.
4. Small, Quick and Quiet Cameras
Leica cameras gained popularity among photojournalists largenly because they were small, light, quick and quiet. Like photojournalism, the goal of travel photograph is to tell a great story. And the presence of a massive dSLR with a 300mm lens can mess things up. It takes more time to set up and attracts attention, changing the scene in front of you.
Now most of us won’t have a Leica sitting in the closet, but the principles are the same. Compact quick, subtle cameras work best. There are some very capable, relatively compact cameras out there, such as Canon’s G-series, that combine these features for, say, less than the four thousand bucks a Leica will set you back. Nearly all of these shots were taken with non-SLRs.
5. Protect your Gear
Watch your gear closely. It helps to use a pack that is bought locally, or at least doesn’t seem obviously luxurious. It’s not that people there are generally dishonest; more that tourists attract thieves.
Developing countries can be tough on your gear. Look for small and well-protected packs. Bring your cleaning kit, as dust can reduce camera sharpness quickly. If you have the choice, leave the expensive fragile gear at home, and bring the durable stuff.
6. Shoot from the Hip
One of the best features of my old G2 was the swivel screen, which rotated in two different directions. This let me take high and low shots easily, for great effect. Most important though, I didn’t have to raise it to eye level, which made inconspicuous shots easy. It’s all about fitting in, and the lack of a camera in front of your face lets you do that. Although Canon has discontinued this feature on its newest G-series cameras, it’s still around on some decent cameras. Worth considering. And worth shooting from the hip, regardless of the camera you use.
7. Look for the Vibrancy
Developing countries can seem like a perfect example of chaos upon arrival. They’re not, of course, they just have systems we are not used to. But with photography, you shoot the world as you see it. There’s beauty in this perceived chaos. Find the vibrancy, the noise, the motion and the colour. Especially the colour.
8. Move
Move up. Move down. Move farther and move closer. Move like the great photojournalist Henri Cartier-Bresson, who took this to a new level: he was able to fit into his surroundings almost completely, drawing no attention. He has been compared to a cat in his smoothness of movement. The result speaks for itself. Now if you’re a Canadian traveling in Malawi, chances are that you’re not going to fit in completely by trying to move like a cat. You might look foolish. But move.
9. Find a Distraction. Or Create Your Own
Cameras can be rare in many places. This means you’ll get attention. This can be great for the straight-ahead, portrait shot, but isn’t so interesting got anything resembling a real life capture. So find situations where there will be something more interesting than you happening. Events work well. The longer you stay, the more attention will be diverted away from you. If you can’t find this, then create your own diversion. Take a few straight-on shots, then start a conversation. Make a joke. Do a little dance. Keep shooting after the initial posed shot. All can produce wonderful candid shots.
10. Know and Use the Right Settings
Things happen quickly. Especially upon arrival, developing countries provide sensory overload. So often the important thing is to get the shot, not endlessly manipulate settings until you get the perfect light. Shutter or aperture priority settings also allow for fairly quick shots, with a little more flexibility. At the very least, take the time to learn your cameras settings well, so that when the time comes you get the right setting instinctively.
And always, always, always shoot at the highest possible quality. Why capture the most beautiful shot of your life, only to have it saved in low resolution? Bring extra memory cards. Shooting at low quality settings will create beautiful postage stamps. The highest settings will let you print and frame your best photos so that your friends will be jealous of your experience and convinced you’re an amazing photographer.
11. Find Context to Tell a Story
Yes people are beautiful. But their lives are fascinating as well. Photography is a powerful communicative medium, so communicate those lives. Find context around the main subject to tell the story you see in front of you.
12. If in Doubt, Ask
This is an important one for me. There are larger debates about photography etiquette and our responsibilities as visitors and photographers. I’ll leave that for another time, but a golden rule is: if you’re unsure whether to take a picture of somebody, then ask. In some areas, it’s considerate to leave a small gift or amount of money as a thank you. Your call.
I missed one of the best shots I have ever come across, because I asked whether it was okay to shoot. Picture an old Senegalese grandmother, piercing green eyes within a face etched with thin white contours. Headscarf, clutched just below the chin with a flowing, boney hand. She was sitting in front of an earth wall with soft evening side lighting. When I asked if I could take a picture, she said no, with a subtle smile. I still wish I could have taken the shot. But she didn’t want me to, so I’ll just have to remember it instead.
13. Get out of Tourist Traps
Yes the Taj Mahal is beautiful. Go and take a few shots. But then try heading out to a village a few hours away. This is where the real life is, the true expressions of humanity and beauty. My favourite travel photos aren’t great buildings. The best show the soul of people around the world, and allow us to enjoy our differences and similarities. Find that.
These tips, in slightly different form, originally appeared on JPG. The photos are:
1) An opening of a school in Kagnobon, Senegal, 2004
2) Herders in Tigray, Ethiopia, 2009
3) A (yes) circumcision ceremony in a village in Southern Senegal, 2004
4) A woman in contemplation in the same village, 2004
5) Assane Diouf training on manual well drilling in Senegal, 2004
6) Netsanet being beautiful, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, 2009
7) Three women waiting for lunch at the aformentioned school opening, Senegal, 2004
8 ) Soccer in a neighbourhood of Ziguinchor, Senegal, 2006
9) Asegadech in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, 2009
10) Boys enjoying a Rope Pump demonstration, Senegal, 2004
11) A woman with an Afridev handpump in Tigray, Ethiopia, 2009
12) A girl waiting during a rice processing demonstration in a village around Ziguinchor, Senegal, 2006
13) A girl at the same school opening in Kagnobon, Senegal, 2004
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